Graduation on the hair means cutting the strands in the form of a "ladder" along the entire volume of the curls, giving the hair a multi-layered look. The haircut allows you to create additional volume, does not require complex daily styling and allows you to remove split ends at any level. Graduation is suitable for any structure and thickness of the hair, as well as for any length (short, medium or long).
What is a graduated haircut or graduation?
Graduation is cutting hair at a certain degree (it was the word degree that gave the name to this haircut method). The cut angle can be increased / decreased by changing the degree of inclination of the scissors (with the method of cutting with vertical strands) or the angle of pulling the hair (with the horizontal method of highlighting the strands).
This method of cutting allows you to achieve a smooth transition between strands of different lengths, making the hairstyle visually voluminous. Graduation can be performed both over the entire volume of the hair, and in certain areas (from the middle of the length, near the face, only at the crown).
Benefits of a graduated hairstyle for long hair
A graduated haircut for long hair stands out with a large list of advantages and practically no disadvantages.
| Positive aspects of haircuts | Negative sides of haircuts |
| Allows you to defuse thick strands and give lightness to your hair. | Not suitable for long, thin and thin hair. |
| Gives extra volume to thin hair (haircut is recommended for medium length hair). | In the presence of "elastic" curls, it is impossible to graduate on the crown, this will give the hairstyle an unattractive negligence. |
| Suitable for hair of different structures (thin, curly, straight) and lengths. | Frequent adjustments of the haircut (with thin hair) are necessary to maintain the desired volume. |
| You can use a variety of styling and hairstyles that will hide the imperfections of the face oval. | Only a professional can select the correct graduation for the hair structure. Home styling is not recommended. |
| Combines with all types of bangs (also without it). | |
| They will visually "reset" from 5 to 10 years old women. | |
| Graduation can be performed at different levels (from the crown of the head or just near the ends of the hair). | |
| Doesn't require complicated styling. | |
| You can change the hairstyle without shortening the main hair length. | |
| Allows you to completely eliminate split ends. |
By highlighting or coloring, you can additionally add volume to the hairstyle if it is lacking, or highlight the layering of the strands.
It is important to have a haircut by an experienced master, since if the cut angle is chosen incorrectly, instead of additional volume, the hair will look more liquid. To correct the error, you will have to shorten the curls.
How to choose a haircut?
The choice of a graduated haircut is recommended to be agreed with the master. The specialist takes into account the hair structure, the type of facial contours and the client's age. In addition, the hairdresser can recommend suitable styling, both for holidays and for every day.
By hair type
Before starting a haircut, a qualified specialist always inspects the condition of the hair and its structure.
After evaluating the quality of the strands, the final choice of the haircut option is made.
| Hair characteristic | Description of the recommended calibration |
| Thick | It is recommended to graduate from the crown on medium or long hair. The layering of the strands will give the hairstyle lightness, as well as facilitate daily hair styling. |
| Rare | You can add the missing volume to the hairstyle by performing graduation for short hair or medium length. |
| Thin | A haircut is also recommended for medium to short hair. It is important to observe a special smoothness of the transitions. Otherwise, the haircut will turn out to be stepped, which will only contribute to a decrease in the volume of the hairstyle. |
| Fat | Thick hair is difficult to style, so the graduation will look better on medium to long hair. Hairspray may be required to shape the hair. |
| Wavy | With wavy strands, you can graduate on hair of different lengths. With this hair structure, the hairstyle requires almost no styling. |
| Elastic curls | Graduation for "curls" is rarely used and mainly for long hair. |
| With pronounced split ends | In the presence of this hair structure, the graduation is not recommended, since due to the section of the ends, the hairstyle will soon look like a “washcloth”. |
The choice of the beginning of the graduation (from the crown of the head from the middle of the face or near the ends) is determined at the request of the client and the oval of the face.
By face type
Correctly selected graduation, or rather hairstyling, allows you to emphasize the correct face shape or hide angularity.
| Face contour type | Recommended graduation |
| Oval | A graduation is suitable, made at any level, for any hair length and with any styling. You can choose options with or without bangs. |
| Rectangular | The haircut is made for medium and long hair with graduation from the ears. To hide the angularity, bangs (of any shape) and styling with a curl to the face are recommended. |
| Round | Cutting is recommended for medium or long hair. The beginning of the graduation is below the ear area. The presence of bangs is required (preferably oblique). It is important that curling the strands inward will give the face more roundness, so this styling method is undesirable. |
| Square | To eliminate the angularity of the face, a haircut for medium or long hair is suitable. It is desirable to make the graduation from the ears and below. Oblique bangs recommended. When styling, curl the strands towards the face. |
| Triangular (forehead base) | Graduation is recommended to be done below the ears on hair of medium length or long. Curling the strands to the face will allow you to hide a strong narrowing of the chin. The type of bangs is selected at will. |
| Triangular (base in the chin area) | The haircut can be done on hair of any length. To visually cover the narrowness in the forehead, it is recommended to graduate from the crown. A bang is required (preferably a ragged design). |
| Diamond-shaped | A haircut for any length of hair is suitable with curling strands to the face to cover angularities. Graduation can be done at any level. Bangs are required. |
Also, hair graduation allows you to eliminate imperfections in the length of the neck (lengthen the short and hide the long).
By season
Graduated haircut for long hair does not require adjustment depending on the season. The plus of the hairstyle is the simplicity of styling, which does not deteriorate in winter under the headdress.
To add fluffiness to the hair, after the street, it is enough to lightly comb and beat the strands. Owners of thick hair, when living in hot climates, are recommended to cut for hair of medium length and short.
Who is suitable for age?
Graduated haircut has no age restrictions.The hairstyle is popular among young people because of the ease of styling. And also because of the many options for creating hairstyles that allow you to change your look from a business lady to a romantic look (without changing your haircut).
After 35 years of age, the graduation refreshes the face, allowing you to visually reduce age. For women over 50 years old, this haircut method allows you to maintain hair length without the effect of "old age".
Execution technology
The basic rule for performing the graduation is to cut the curls at an angle, so that each subsequent strand becomes shorter by no more than 2 mm. As a result, the hairstyle acquires splendor without noticeable length transitions in the hair.
Depending on the location of the shortened layer, the graduation is divided into:
- external. The outer strands are shortened from the total mass of the hair, and the inner curls remain longer;
- internal. The strands located inside of the total hair volume are shorter than the outer curls.
A variety of hair lengths is carried out by changing the angle of inclination of the scissors or pulling strands. Also, depending on the change in the angle of inclination / brace, you can arrange the transition of the strands more sharply
Subtleties of perfect graduation
A graduated haircut stands out for its complexity of design, therefore, when choosing this hairstyle, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the nuances of its implementation for short, medium and long hair.
Let's list the main ones:
- the hairdresser, by the thickness of the hair and the type of face, must determine the required cut angle;
- the master must observe the selected angle of inclination for all strands (when choosing a horizontal cutting method) or scissors (when choosing a vertical method), otherwise the smoothness will be broken;
scissors should be well sharpened, not chewed or bend the hair;- if it is necessary to add volume at the crown, it is recommended to cut the hair at an angle of 45 degrees;
- to add volume along the entire length of the hair, the cut angle of the strands should be 90 degrees;
- when making a haircut for curly hair, you need to more carefully monitor the length of the strands, the angle of inclination of the cut and the smoothness of the transitions, and also take into account that curly hair is shortened more in a dry state;
- with thick hair, the graduation should give lightness, therefore it is recommended to start its implementation from the crown;
- for thin hair, the minimum length at the crown should not be less than 5 cm, otherwise the hairstyle will acquire an unkempt look;
- for long hair, graduation is desirable, starting from the ears or shoulders (depending on the client's wishes);
- to give the hairstyle a cascade shape, it is recommended to place the hair parallel to the floor, using a vertical method, with a scissors tilt angle of 60 degrees;
- the haircut is recommended to be carried out using the point cut method (point cut of hair with straight scissors), this allows you to achieve an even smoother transition between the strands;
- depending on the chosen thinning method, you can give your haircut a "ragged" look to give the hairstyle more individuality.
It is quite difficult to make a haircut yourself at home while observing smooth transitions, so it is recommended to visit a trusted hairdressing salon.
Bangs for a graduated haircut for long hair
Graduated haircut for long hair can be done with or without bangs. When choosing a bang, it is advisable to choose it according to the type of face and so that it is a continuation of the hairstyle.
The main types of bangs:
| Bangs design | a brief description of |
| Straight | It is selected when performing a haircut in the classic version. Visually reduces pronounced cheekbones, and is also used in the presence of a high forehead. |
| Oblique | Allows you to hide the angularity or excessive roundness of the face. |
| Arcuate | It is used for triangular and diamond-shaped faces to visually hide the narrowness in the forehead. |
| Torn | Gives the hairstyle individuality and emphasizes the layering of the haircut. Additionally, it allows you to hide the flaws of an elongated or thin face. |
| Volumetric | Used when cutting short hair. You can also use graduation for its design. |
With wavy hair, the bangs are selected depending on the severity of the curls. With strongly curly strands, it is recommended to abandon the bangs or arrange it at eye level. When choosing straight, torn or voluminous bangs, you can change the image by changing the direction of combing the bangs.
Scheme for performing a graduated haircut step by step with and without bangs
A graduated haircut must be performed in compliance with the following steps:
- Hair must be rinsed and dried until damp. Comb thoroughly in a row.
- Divide hair into zones
- parietal (vertex);
- temporal;
- upper and lower occipital (separated by a horizontal parting from the middle of the auricle).
- Start cutting from the lower occipital zone. It is required to select a vertical control strand 1-1.5 cm wide.
- Pull the selected section perpendicular to the neck (that is, the hair is parallel to the floor). Cut at a 45 degree angle.
- All hair of the lower occipital zone is cut with vertical parting. To maintain the length of the hair, you must observe the guideline for the control strand. Carry out a haircut using the strand by strand method, observing the cut angle.
The upper occipital zone is trimmed with radial parting while maintaining the perpendicular guy and an angle of 45 degrees, using the strand by strand method. Hair length is determined by the length of the strands of the lower occipital zone.- The temporal zones are required to be divided by horizontal partings into the upper and lower zones.
- Cut from the lower zone by selecting vertical strands at an angle of 45 degrees, strand by strand method. Start a haircut from a strand located near the back of the head, which will be the control.
- Cut the upper temporal zone in the same way as the upper occipital zone (radial perpendicular parting, maintaining an angle of 45 degrees, the method is similar to the occipital zone). The hair is cut from the back of the head to the face. The control of the length of the strands is carried out along the lower temporal zone.
- The parietal area needs to be divided with a central parting. Focusing on the length of the strands of the upper temporal zone, cut with vertical perpendicular parting at an angle of 45 degrees using the strand by strand method. The movement of the strands should be from the back of the head to the face.
- Combing the hair in order to identify uncut strands.
- Using the method of vertical and radial parting, make thinning, giving smooth transitions.
When choosing a graduated haircut with bangs, the type of bangs and the desired length are pre-determined. Further, the haircut is done in stages:
| Bangs design | Haircut sequence |
| Straight |
|
| Oblique |
|
| Arcuate | This type of bangs is distinguished by long strands on the sides and short ones in the center. The haircut is done as follows:
|
| Torn |
|
| Volumetric |
|
At the end, the master carries out styling suitable for the type of face.
How to style your hairstyle for every day?
Graduated haircut for long hair allows you to create a variety of hairstyles, both for every day and for the holidays.
Daily styling options:
- dry the hair with the head tilted forward only at the base of the hair (this will add volume to the hair). Next, use your hands to give the strands a carelessness and continue drying (head in a natural position). Comb your hair and give your hair a slight carelessness;
- dry hair using brushing (round comb). The curling of the strands can be done in different directions. This will add volume to the styling;
- apply gel to dry hair, give it a slight carelessness with your hands. Allow the gel to dry and lightly comb your hair;
- when graduating curly hair, you can use an iron. In the process of straightening, slightly curl the ends of the hair;
- to create a voluminous hairstyle on thin hair, wet hair must be styled using a gel, hairdryer and brushing. Twist the strands inward. If necessary, lightly comb the strands at the roots. Fix with varnish.
If you have bangs, you can curl it with a brush of a smaller diameter or with the help of your hand, giving it a slight negligence. Fix with gel or varnish.
Festive styling
A graduated haircut looks festive with the correct arrangement of the strands with an expression of the layering of the haircut. To do this, it is enough to dry your hair using brushing and gel. You can decorate your hair with a hairpin.
Other methods of creating festive hairstyles for a graduated haircut:
- using a curling iron and gel, curl with curls, while maintaining layering. Fix with varnish, do not comb;
- curl with curls and fix them with varnish. Lightly comb the hair at the roots, pick up strands from the temporal zones and fix them at the back of the head with the help of invisible hairpins or hairpins. Leave a small strand on the temporal zone (on either side), curl with a curling iron;
- using a special curling iron, create waves on the hair, fix with varnish, do not comb. Decorate with a hairpin, securing part of the temporal strand to the back of the head. The pinned temporal strand should be combined with the waves at the back of the head.
To visit the club, you can use a spray of different colors (washed off with shampoo) to emphasize the multi-layered haircut and the uniqueness of the image.The graduated haircut stands out for its versatility (suitable for hair of any structure and thickness, as well as for any type of face) and does not require special styling, both on holidays and on weekdays.
When making a graduation, it is important to observe the angle of the brace of the strands (or the angle of inclination of the scissors) in order to maintain smooth transitions.
If this rule is not followed, the haircut will look sloppy and the hair volume will decrease even more. To fix the hairstyle, you will need to shorten the total length of the hair.
Video with the implementation of a graduated female haircut
How to make a graduated female haircut:
Author: Kotlyachkova Svetlana