A dark color can get bored over time, but blond harms the hair and requires a significant investment in care. A compromise is highlighting with light strands. When dyeing, only 30-50% of the hair is lightened. The technique allows you to mask gray hair or grow the natural hair color without sacrifice.
Who is dark hair with bleached strands suitable for?
Color type table
Dark hair with light streaks suits almost all types of appearance. The main thing is to find the right contrast and shade.
Traditionally, there are 4 color types:
Color type | Eye color | Hair color | Suitable shade of strands |
Winter | Light blue, gray, brown, black. | Black, dark chestnut. | Caramel, ash blond. |
Spring | Green, blue. | Light brown, light blonde, wheat, honey and golden blonde. | Golden. |
Summer | Gray, blue, gray-green. | Dark blond, ash blond, neutral and ash blond. | Neutral and pearly blond. |
Fall | Dark brown, bright brown, green, honey. | Caramel, chestnut, copper, red, honey and strawberry blond. | Caramel, golden, copper. |
Some techniques combine cold and warm shades of the strands.
Who shouldn't do highlights?
Lightening strands is rarely suitable for girls with a hair color level below 4 (dark brown, black). Also, the procedure must be abandoned if the hair was dyed with henna. If you have recently stained in a darker tone, you will first need to remove the pigment.
You should not do highlighting if the hair is severely damaged: it splits and breaks. The brightening composition makes the strands more porous and brittle. The paint can "burn" them.
Features of lightening at different hair lengths
Dark hair with light strands looks different depending on its length and cut. All highlighting techniques are suitable for long hair. Especially those that imitate glare: shatush, balayazh, Californian.
For bob and bangs, the best option is classic highlighting with thin, frequent strands. Californian highlights and balayage look good on an elongated square - especially in combination with light waves or curls. On long hair, highlighting is easiest to do with foil. On medium and short lengths - with a cap.
Choosing the thickness of the strands
Highlights with wide stripes are a thing of the past. The main rule: the greater the contrast between the base color and the lightening, the smaller the strands should be. Coloring should be invisible: as if the hair was burnt out in the sun.
Shade selection
Paints are numbered in the format N1.N2.N3, where:
- the first digit is the level of tone depth;
- the second is the main shade;
- the third is an additional shade;
A paint number can only have two numbers.
Tone level - how dark / light the hair color will be. Scale: 1 to 10, where 1 is black, 10 is very light, almost white blond. For highlighting, paints from 8 to 11 levels are suitable.
Second and third numbers: color nuances. For example, light brown can be neutral, ash, golden or reddish.Some manufacturers indicate the primary and secondary shade with a letter.
Decoding of marking:
Numeral | Letter | Shade |
1 | A | Ash (gray-purple). |
2 | V | Violet. |
3 | G | Golden. |
4 | C | Copper. |
5 | M | Mahogany (burgundy). |
6 | R | Red. |
7 | B | Coffee. |
For example, dye in shade 10.1 will give the strands a very light pearl color. Shades 8.3 and 8.4 - golden blond color.
Paint selection
Dark hair is lightened with dye only if the "base" (original color) is natural. The dye alone will not cope with the artificial pigment in the strands. In this case, it is necessary to remove it with a remover or use a bleaching powder.
Both procedures, in the absence of experience, can lead to unpredictable results. For example, hair stains or the appearance of "green". For dyeing at home, it is best to choose professional dyes - they give a predictable result.
The most famous professional brands:
- Estel;
- Kapous;
- L'oreal Professional;
- Wella;
- C: enko;
- Schwarzkopf Professional;
- Selective;
As a rule, paints are available in two volumes: 60 and 100 ml. For hair of medium thickness, just below the shoulders, one pack of 100 ml is enough. Long or thick ones will require more product.
Paints, depending on the shade, are mixed with oxide in a 1: 1 or 1: 2 ratio. The exact formula is indicated in the instructions. To lighten 1 tone, 6% oxide is enough. 2-4 tones - 9%. There is also a 12% oxide, but it is not recommended to use it at home.
Strand lightening techniques
The dyeing result depends on the strand placement scheme and color schemes. The following article presents the most popular highlighting techniques.
Classic
Classical technique - even lightening of thin strands from the roots along the entire length. Dyes from 40% of hair. Looks best on dark to medium blonde hair. It is used to change hair color by 1-2 tones, but it looks more natural and voluminous than monochromatic lightening.
Zonal
Dark hair with light strands in this version is done only on the top layer of the haircut. On the crown and on the sides, highlighting comes from the parting, from behind - along the back of the head. This solution is suitable for weak or damaged hair, as only a small part of it is colored.
The reverse
The technique of back highlighting is also called "purl". The strands do not lighten, but, on the contrary, are painted in a darker tone.
Benefits:
- More gentle staining.
- Hair looks more textured and voluminous.
- Ability to darken the tone by 1-2 levels.
- A way to grow natural hair color without radical coloring
- The time interval between procedures increases. Regrown roots can be stained every 4-6 months.
There is also a significant drawback. When the strands are lightened, the natural pigment is washed out and the hair retains its color. In reverse highlighting, the hair, on the contrary, is filled with additional pigment. The dark pigment wears off over time. Each subsequent procedure will be processed new strands and gradually all hair will become darker.
California
Highlighting creates the effect of sun-bleached hair. It is most often used on hair lighter than level 7 (light brown). Californian coloring is done in warm golden tones. Lightened strands look like sun highlights on healthy hair.
Ombre
Ombre is a coloring technique in which a gradient is created on the hair. It does not apply to highlighting, but it also allows you to achieve a natural result. The dark color smoothly turns into light from the crown to the tips. In the middle of the canvas, dark and lightened strands are mixed. As a rule, color contrast is 2-3 tones.
Shatush
In the “shatush” technique, the lower half of the length is painted. Several shades of dye mixtures are used at once. Shatush is the creation of texture using the play of light and shadow. Shades are combined so that there are no sharp transitions on the strands.
Balayazh
Combines the techniques of "ombre" and "shatush" - a smooth gradient from the roots and toning of individual strands. Balayage is ideal for growing natural color and looks especially advantageous on curly hair.
Extravagant ideas with light strands against a background of dark hair
The original solution is "latent coloring". The hair layer on the back of the head is discolored so that the new color is only visible in hairstyles. With loose hair, the colored part is hidden. Highlighted strands can be tinted.
Natural blends with dark hair:
- copper;
- strawberry blond;
- platinum blond.
Creative hidden colors: turquoise, pink, blue, purple, red.
Staining sequence
The techniques listed below use different tools, but they have the same staining process. It is necessary to follow the instructions from the paint manufacturer - there is indicated the exact holding time of the dye and recommendations for its application.
With hair bands
Highlighting on elastic bands is a simple but controversial way to lighten strands. The procedure requires 8-15 small hair ties.
Staining in stages:
- Divide hair into 2 zones: upper (from the temples to the crown) and lower.
- Collect the upper part of the hair into a bun.
- Divide the bottom evenly into several small tails. Secure each with an elastic band approximately in the middle.
- Apply the diluted paint with a brush to the level of the rubber band.
- Soak the dye according to the instructions, and then, without removing the rubber bands, wash off with shampoo.
- Cut the elastic bands and dry your hair.
In this way, the ombre effect is obtained at home.
With silicone cap
The most accurate way to evenly lighten the strands. Suitable for short to medium length hair. You need to purchase a special perforated hat and hook at a hairdressing store. Small holes for hair are evenly distributed on the cap - with their help, it is easy to separate thin strands for lightening.
- The cap is put on dry combed hair. The parting should be placed as usual.
- Each area of the surface of the head is processed in turn: the crown, two temporal and occipital.
- The hook must be inserted into the hole, hook on the strand and pull it out.
- Further, staining is carried out according to the classical scheme. The cap is removed before rinsing the head.
With foil
Hairdressing foil differs from food foil in the width of the rolls and the density of the material. In operation, this difference is almost invisible. Some professional foils are thicker and hold better. Foil highlighting refers to closed methods. Before painting, it is necessary to cut the material into strips.
The width is calculated like this: multiply the thickness of the strand in mm by 4. To this number add another 20 mm to the sides.
- The hair must be divided into four equal sections and pinned with clips. The clamp is removed from the treated area.
- They begin work from the occipital zone. The strands are picked by hand using a flat comb with a sharp tip.
- The selected strand is placed on a prepared sheet, a coloring composition is applied, and then a "pocket" is made of foil. The free side edges are bent by 1 cm.
- If the foil slips off, it can be secured "invisibly".
- After processing all the strands, the paint is left for the time specified in the instructions.
After the time has elapsed, the pockets are removed, and the hair is rinsed with water and shampoo.
With a comb
You can use a regular flat comb with sparse teeth, but it is recommended to purchase a special hairdressing tool - a striper. It differs in the shape of the teeth. The upper row is smaller and more frequent, the lower row is sparse, with large intervals. This comb allows you to evenly highlight the strands from the total hair volume.
There are other types of highlighting combs. The principle of their work is the same. During staining, it is necessary to comb a wide strand with a tool, starting from the roots.Apply paint evenly to the formed small strands. After all hair has been treated, follow the instructions on the product packaging.
How to remove yellowness from hair after dyeing?
Yellow pigment often appears after lightening dark to medium blonde hair. There are two ways to neutralize it: tinting or using special care.
Tinting is done with paint and oxide 3 or 6%. Shades that neutralize yellowness: N.1 and N.2, where N is the tone level.
Toning can be done immediately after staining. An easy way to maintain color is to use tinting cosmetics. Shampoos and balms for yellowness are used more often. Less commonly - masks and ampoules. Products contain large amounts of blue or purple pigment.
Blue is used to neutralize the clear yellow undertones and make the hair look grayer. Such products are suitable for maintaining a "platinum" blonde. Violet neutralizes red-yellow pigment (copper, reddish undertone). All products are used while shampooing. The frequency of application is 1-2 times a week.
Dark hair color is easy to "refresh" by adding highlights and shimmers. Partially coloring the strands in a light color harms the hair much less, but visually changes their shade by 1-2 tones. Classic highlighting is easy to do at home. For new complex techniques, you should contact a professional.
Dark Hair With Light Strands Video
Hair highlighting at home:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L0s1O6UfuQ